> ## Content Index > Fetch the complete content index at: https://tat.chessservices.de/llms.txt > Use this file to discover other available public pages before exploring further. # An Insider’s Guide to Mexico City - URL: https://tat.chessservices.de/1b327cca-4969-4779-a3d3-c6ca44a3ce5f/ - Published: 2017-09-03T21:43:32.000Z - Updated: 2017-09-03T21:43:32.000Z - Description: A mere 20 years ago, visitors largely steered clear of the crime-plagued capital. In 1997, the federal district received the right to elect its own officials, triggering a seismic shift in the city’s political scene and a new era of reinvention. - Author: Jacques Bopp - Tags: Travel, #Import 2024-03-24 08:40, #Import 2026-08-20 14:53 **Mansions of faded** colonial glory, picturesque plazas, an enviable restaurant scene and more museums than one could reasonably consume are drawing ever more travelers to Mexico’s capital city. Like a Big Apple of Latin America, it’s a melting pot of nationalities, including the largest number of U.S. expats in one city. A mere 20 years ago, visitors largely steered clear of the crime-plagued capital. In 1997, the federal district received the right to elect its own officials, triggering a seismic shift in the city’s political scene and a new era of reinvention. Young architects, chefs, designers and hoteliers began making their mark. These days, though many parts of the country continue to generate headlines for drug-related violence, the tourists areas of Mexico City remain generally calm. Of course, the Mexican capital can also be a traffic-knotted mess. For that reason, our local experts advise taking in just one or two of its 16 distinctive neighborhoods a day. And for a truly local experience, leave time for a glass of mezcal to wash down the giant ant larvae. --- ## A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City ## Four discerning locals share their favorite spots in the Mexican capital ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW417_0902ME_M_20170829132606-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW406_0902ME_M_20170829132556-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW427_0902ME_M_20170829133830-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW089_0902ME_M_20170828185656-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW420_0902ME_M_20170829132606-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW415_0902ME_M_20170829132606-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW428_0902ME_M_20170829133830-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW418_0902ME_M_20170829132606-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW419_0902ME_M_20170829132606-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW421_0902ME_M_20170829132611-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW422_0902ME_M_20170829132611-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW405_0902ME_M_20170829132556-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW404_0902ME_M_20170829132556-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW403_0902ME_M_20170829132556-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW076_0902ME_M_20170828185647-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW081_0902ME_M_20170828185651-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW408_0902ME_M_20170829132556-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW407_0902ME_M_20170829132556-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW083_0902ME_M_20170828185651-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW082_0902ME_M_20170828185651-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW410_0902ME_M_20170829132601-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW100_0902ME_M_20170828191502-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW409_0902ME_M_20170829132601-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW411_0902ME_M_20170829132601-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW414_0902ME_M_20170829132601-2.jpg) ![A Cheat Sheet to Mexico City](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW101_0902ME_M_20170828191502-2.jpg) Salón Los Angeles, which Patricia Sloane, associate curator at the city’s Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporaneo, calls a cathedral of culture. Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock for The Wall Street Journal 1 of 26 ••••• --- ![](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW856_HCGV32_8H_20170830115315-2.jpg) #### THE FASHION DESIGNER ###### Carla Fernández *Founder of CDMX-based eponymous stores* **RIVERA RESERVOIR** // **Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli.** The most amazing tribute to Rivera, it’s in a massive building he designed for his collection of pre-Hispanic art and artifacts. *Museo 150, Coyoacán,[museoanahuacalli.org.mx](http://museoanahuacalli.org.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **SATURDAY SPECIAL** // **Bazaar Sábado.** I adore shopping in this renovated 18th-century home for textiles and magnificent Mexican jewelry from great artisan families. Only Saturdays. *San Jacinto 11, San Ángel* **AL FRESCO APERITIF** // **Downtown Mexico.** You’ll find a lively scene in this 17th-century palace spiced up with bold art. I go to its terrace bar to enjoy a cucumber mezcal cocktail and the best downtown view. *From about $150 a night, Isabel la Catolica 30,[downtownmexico.com](http://downtownmexico.com/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **BUZZY BITES** // **Tetetlán.** This is the restaurant of the moment. I love the crickets dried with lemon and the fire-roasted avocados. *Av. de Las Fuentes 180, Jardines del Pedregal,[tetetlan.com](http://tetetlan.com/?ref=tat.chessservices.de).* ![Diego Riveria drawings inside the Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli.](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW422_0902ME_P_20170829132611-2.jpg) Diego Riveria drawings inside the Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli. Photo: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock for The Wall Street Journal ![](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW861_HCGV32_8H_20170830115440-2.jpg) #### THE ART DOYENNE ###### Patricia Sloane *Associate curator of Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporaneo (MUAC/UNAM)* **RETRO DIGS** // **Camino Real Polanco.** This midcentury masterpiece has never lost its coolness. I recommend a room next to the pool and near the gardens of Chapultepec Park. *From about $130 a night,[caminoreal.com](https://caminoreal.com/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **A MONUMENTAL MARTINI** // **St. Regis Hotel terrace.** The King Cole Bar presents a good martini at sunset and a view of the shimmering angel on the Independence Monument. *Paseo de la Reforma 439, Cuauhtémoc* **MARKET MUNCHIES** // **San Juan Market.** It’s an unsurpassable food market filled with edible eccentricities like kangaroo or crocodile meat. Find a merchant for midmorning ceviche or tapas. *Calle de Ernesto Pugibet No. 21* **SALSA AT THE SALON** // **Salón Los Angeles** In this cathedral of culture, celebrating its 80th year, live orchestras play while you swirl to salsas. *Calle de Lerdo 206, Cuauhtémoc, Guerrero.[salonlosangeles.mx](http://salonlosangeles.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* ![The garden at Camino Real Polanco.](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW108_0902ME_M_20170828191508-2.jpg) The garden at Camino Real Polanco. Photo: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock for The Wall Street Journal ![](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW855_HCGV31_8H_20170830115224-2.jpg) #### THE ARCHITECT ###### Mauricio Rocha *Founder and principal architect of Taller de Arquitetura* **TOP TACOS** // **El Venadito.** Join the line to fuel up with a *tacos al pastor* at my favorite taco stand. Across the street, stop to admire the mid 20th-century Chapel of San José del Altillo. *Av. Universidad 1701, Colonia Agricola, Chimalistac* **BEYOND MARIACHI** // **Fonoteca Nacional.** This splendid archive of Mexican music is housed in an 18th-century hacienda where poet Octavio Paz last lived. And it’s on Avenida Francisco Sosa, one of the city’s most beautiful colonial-era streets. *Av. Francisco Sosa 383, Coyoacán,[fonotecanacional.gob.mx](http://fonotecanacional.gob.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **CORN FED** // **Merendero las Lupitas.** At this outpost for Northern Mexican food, I order the *atole,* a hot corn-based drink, and the egg and bean dishes. *Calle Jardín, Santa Catarina,[merenderolaslupitas.com.mx](http://merenderolaslupitas.com.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **PARK IT** // **Santa Catarina Plaza.** Find a bench to soak up the charms of the 16th-century chapel Capilla de Santa Catarina. Tamale and frijoles at Merendero las Lupitas. Photo: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock for The Wall Street Journal ![](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW860_HCGV32_8H_20170830115406-2.jpg) #### THE STAR CHEF ###### Jair Téllez *Chef and founder of Amaya and Laja restaurants and co-founder of MeroToro restaurant* **GIFT STOP** // **Fonart.** This is one of several well-curated stores funded by the government to support traditional Mexican crafts. The selection of pottery is outstanding. *Av. Patriotismo 691, Colonia Mixcoac,[fonart.gob.mx](https://www.fonart.gob.mx/web/index.php?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **BRAIN FOOD** // **Taquería El Progreso.** This sidewalk restaurant is my favorite place for a CDMX specialty, cow head tacos *(tacos de cabeza).* Cow brain is supremely flavorful. *Calle Maestro Antonio Caso 30, Tabacalera* **FRENCH-MEX** // **Havre 77.** When I’m not in front of a stove, I crave the steak frites and oysters at this French-Mexican brasserie from chef Eduardo García, a former migrant worker and star chef. *Havre 77, Colonia Juárez, Cuauhtémoc,[havre77.com](http://havre77.com/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* **MOODY MEZCAL** // **La Clandestina Mezcaleria.** This is my favorite dive bar for artisanal mezcal. It’s dark and soothing, and serves one-of-a-kind bottles. *Alvaro Obregon 298, Colonia Condesa* ![Havre 77.](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW414_0902ME_P_20170829132601-2.jpg) Havre 77\. Photo: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock for The Wall Street Journal ###### Plus, Don’t Miss... ![The Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporaneo.](https://tat.chessservices.de/content/images/2020/05/BN-UW425_0902ME_P_20170829133030-2.jpg) The Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporaneo. Photo: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock for The Wall Street Journal **Museo Nacional de Antropología.** Deservedly the most visited museum in CDMX, it holds a wealth of pre-Hispanic culture. *Av. Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi s/n,[mna.inah.gob.mx](http://mna.inah.gob.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* // **Museo del Templo Mayor.** is the remains of the pyramid of former Tenochtitlán peoples, which was discovered in the 1970s during the excavation of a parking lot. [*templomayor.inah.gob.mx*](http://templomayor.inah.gob.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de) // **Los Danzantes.** Head here for contemporary interpretations of Mexican food like spaghetti with *huitlacoche* sauce, made from corn smut, a fungal corn growth that adds nutrients and flavor. *Plaza Jardín Centenario 12, Coyoacán,[losdanzantes.com](http://www.losdanzantes.com/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* // **San Ángel Inn.** This former monastery offers a patio for cocktails and snacks like the tasty *escamoles* (edible ant larvae). *Calle Diego Rivera 50,[sanangelinn.com](http://sanangelinn.com/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)* // **Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (MUAC).** One of the city’s most iconic modern structures houses a stellar collection of contemporary art. *Escolar, Ciudad Universitaria, Coyoacán,[muac.unam.mx](http://muac.unam.mx/?ref=tat.chessservices.de)*